A Sunday In Paris

Sunday In Paris

There's no easier way to get around Paris than by Metro....and while it ain't cheap, it sure is amazing. Once you've learned a few French words — and how this elaborate system works — you can get almost anywhere in this city within an hour. Since we're taking a few side trips, we scoped out train stations Sunday and this metro station was Gare de l'Est.

Hungry for take-out? At Sunday's Organic Raspail market you had lots of choices including pork, sausages, potatoes and sauerkraut (choucroute garnie) or seafood paella...either one sold from gigantic steaming pans.

Of course there was plenty of bread (by the pound) and flowers by the bouquet. Its a while before Easter and although it's a bit warmer her than at home, the flower selection is still more Winter than Spring. Even so, it's easy to find greenery for a Parisian apartment.... flower stores and booths and market stalls are as easy to find as are bakeries.

Strawberries, limes, and berries and plums, artichokes,  and (below) zucchini, cabbage and eggplants.

Thanks to (former San Francisco now Parisian) blogger and author David Lebovitz we learned about Holybelly....a great not-so-usual Paris restaurant and coffee hangout. We've been there twice (and likely will return) for their friendliness and their fare.

Just down Rue Lucien Simpaix  a bit (from HolyBelly) is  Liberté, a great new boulangerie with an interesting take on bread and pastries. Their sandwiches hit the spot. Alas we visited the area the wrong day to check out their next-door neighbor The Sunken Chip... it was closed.

Big loaves — cut to order. For some varieties, we've consider this and may try it this year. Customers...what do you think?

Liberté makes an amazing chocolate bread — very similar to one we'll be featuring regularly this year at the Bayview Farmers Market.

We wonder what this city looks like in Spring, Summer and Fall when empty trees, bushes and vines are leaved out. We love our Winter visits, but would love to see this marvelous city in all its splendor.

Train stations are amazingly busy, bustling centers of activity and when a train says it leaves at 12:55, you'd better be on board because it pulls out the exact moment the clock changes from 12:54:59.

Lots of market cheese and new to the French markets is kale, while a staple in the PNW, it something new here and still very rarely seen.

Wines, ciders, and roses add beauty and color to everyday life.

Fresh eggs sold by the "ones" or half dozen....(or dozen)

Elaborate displays of vegetables (and fruits) and jams and jellies, the "sweet/tart" cherry is to die for!

Hungry for something to eat...how about a crepe....or a big loaf of bread to munch on?

On Rue du Cherche-Midi you'll find chocolate shops, the beautiful wheat-stalk door handle at the famous Poilane Boulangerie, interesting jewelry and exquisite clothing.

Glance up and you see an amazing variety of architectural styles and colors

Brioche with sucre and pizza squares piled high with wonderful toppings.

Fancy individual cakes come in rounds and rectangle shapes.

Sunday along the Seine....murky water (from runoff) and tourist busses near Notre Dame

Looking for a pet? Plenty of the colored feathered kinds for sale each week.

Bikers whiz by and pedestrians stroll along by the Seine. And at Les Halles, checking out progress of the new redevelopment of the area. And finally, back near our apartment we love the artwork on this Raspail Boulevard building.

Iceland...

Iceland February 2014

i There's a good chance this Icelandair plane gets rained on more in Seattle than anywhere it travels. Contrary to commonly held believes, weather in Iceland is often warmer and more pleasant than the Midwest. We first booked our flight to Paris with Icelandair because of their great prices....but we learned there's a major perk to traveling with the airline --- being able to take a layover (up to seven days) at no extra charge. So you're able to visit two countries with a single ticket. And what a country it is....we've fallen in love with the place and plan a longer visit soon.

Reflecting light creates incredible patterns on the new Harpa Concert Hall and Convention Center in downtown Reykjavik. The imposing structure houses three performance centers, restaurants, and other visitor facilities. And it's got great free wi-fi and plenty of places for visitors to spend a quiet hour or two just browsing around.

Downtown the streets are narrow but courageous Icelandic drivers navigate with ease. In truth, everything's within a five or ten-block walking distance and unless you plan a trip outside the city, there's no reason to rent a car. Another way to sere the country is to take a tour --- from signs in windows you'd guess 99.9% of them offer guided tours or know somebody who offers one.

Hallgrimskirkja --- the largest church (and one of the tallest buildings) in Iceland --- presides over the capital area of Reykjavik and is visible from nearly all parts of the downtown area. In front is a statue of of Leif Erickson, an Icelander, regarded as the first European to land in North America.

The inside of the church is sparse and beautiful, featuring a massive pipe organ.

Only a few steps to climb thanks to a elevator to the observation deck of the church. From there it's possible to get a birdseye glimpse of the entire surrounding area and of the city.

The Rekyjavik Airport (top photo) is only a few blocks from downtown...but it's no longer used for commercial traffic. Planes land at Keflavik, Iceland's principal airport and transatlantic hub. It's a beautiful airport --- but it's a 45-minute drive from down Reyjavik, so plan on a long slow ride to the city.

The afternoon we arrived as we wandered the downtown area, we heard a commotion and followed our ears. Turns out it was the first day of a two-day peaceful but slightly loud protest against a recent government decision to stop pursuing membership in the European Union. A previous government had backed EU membership, but current leaders decided to withdraw applications until the matter could/would be put to a vote. About 4,000 people kicked and banged on metal barricades set up by police in front of the downtown government assembly hall.

Roads have been built through volcanic lava fields in much of the country. Fifty-two percent of the Reykjavik area is covered with lava.

One of the most touristy --- but very pleasant --- experiences was a visit to the Blue Lagoon, an amazing outdoor thermal pool. Although the place would be refreshing anytime, it was especially so on a bright mid-winter afternoon with outdoor temperatures of about 36 degrees. Water from nearby Svartsengi thermal plant (top of photo) warms the man-made lagoon. Somehow we managed to visit on a slow day...and had the place to ourselves with likely only 300 or so other souls.

Our visit "package" included a meal at the Blue Lagoon restaurant. Gerry's choice was a pan-fried cod and roasted langoustines (caught less than two miles from the kitchen) with cauliflower, pear, fennel and dill. Larry had salad with grilled beef, pickled, beet root with a sesame dressing and an amazing plate of Icelandic cheese. The meal was served (as a baker would note) with a sun-dried tomato focaccia and a home-made butter with lime.

Ducks and swans don't seem to mind the cold as they await treats meted out by tourists at the lake in the popular City Park in downtown Reykjavik. We watched brave souls take shortcuts across the frozen section of the lake.